Recipes from Nashville's Rolf And Daughters
Called the nation’s newest “it” city by The New York Times last month, Nashville, Tennessee, isn’t in the spotlight just because of its television show. The city is becoming a destination for foodies, and newly opened restaurant Rolf And Daughters has joined a plethora of eateries that highlight Southern ingredients. Four-time James Beard Foundation Award nominee and Chef/Owner Philip Krajeck is passionate about incorporating local, seasonal produce into his dishes. Housed in the 100-year old boiler building of the Werthan factory at 700 Taylor St., Rolf And Daughters is furnished with bar stools and countertops built from native Southern hardwood, and Krajeck’s menu draws on Northern Italian and Mediterranean influences with Southern undertones. Right now, he’s focusing on late-winter vegetables like carrots in the “Garden” section of his menu and also agreed to share his take on turnip greens in the recipes below.
Carrot Salad with Rye Crumble
To pickle the carrots, combine the vinegar, sugar, salt and aromatics in a small, non-reactive pot and bring to a boil. Pour the boiling liquid over carrots and allow to cool to room temperature. Cover and reserve for future use.
2 bunches carrots (Mokum are recommended)
1-inch piece fresh ginger, sliced
6 sprigs of thyme
1 Tbsp grapeseed oil
Salt and pepper to taste
Wash the carrots and scrub the exteriors. If they are very fresh and small, then you will not need to peel. Toss with the ginger, thyme and grapeseed oil. Season with salt and pepper. Place on a baking tray and roast at 325 for 10-20 minutes. They should be cooked through yet maintain a toothsome texture. Cool to room temperature and reserve.
1/4 cup lemon juice
1 Tbsp honey
1 tsp Dijon mustard
2 ounces grapeseed oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Whisk together the lemon, honey and Dijon. Whisk in the grapeseed oil and season with salt and pepper. Reserve.
To assemble the salad, you’ll need 8 ounces of Sweetgrass Dairy Lil Moo cheese (or other cow’s milk cheese), the reserved roasted and pickled carrots, dressing, fresh baby greens and rye crumble. Toss the roasted carrots with a spoonful of dressing and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Place five dollops of cheese onto a plate, and arrange the carrots over the cheese. Season the greens with a few drops of dressing, salt and pepper, then scatter over the carrots. Top with rye crumble. Serves 8.
Braised Turnip Greens with Ham Dashi and Polenta
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
4 pieces of garlic, peeled and sliced
2 sweet onions (such as Vidalia)
1/4 tsp crushed red pepper flakes
1 can San Marzano tomatoes (whole peeled)
1 quart Country Ham Dashi (recipe below)
4 bunches cleaned turnip greens
Polenta (recipe below)
Sea salt to taste
In a large pot, combine the garlic, olive oil and crushed pepper flakes. Place over medium heat and cook until the garlic is lightly browned. Add the onion to shock the pan and stop the garlic from browning. Season with salt and cook, over low heat, for 20 minutes (until transparent). Crush the San Marzano tomatoes and add to the pot. Season again with a touch of salt and cook for 20 minutes. Add the Ham Dashi and bring to a simmer. Add the turnip greens and cook for 20-45 minutes (they should be tender and yielding).
Ham Dashi (adapted from David Chang’s Bacon Dashi)
2 each of 4” x 4” Konbu sheets (edible kelp, sold in dried strips)
2 quarts water
1 pound country ham scraps, sliced thin to create as much surface area as possible
Rinse the konbu sheets with cold water. Place the konbu and water in a pot. Place on medium heat and bring to just under a simmer. Remove from heat and allow to infuse for 10 minutes. Remove the konbu (reserve for future use) and add ham scraps. Bring to a gentle simmer, skimming any impurities that rise to the top. Cook for 30 minutes then strain through a fine mesh strainer. Cool rapidly and reserve for future use. (Recipe yields more than needed for the greens.)
1 cup Anson Mills Polenta
5 cups water
2 Tbsp grated Parmesan cheese
2 Tbsp butter
2 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil
Sea salt to taste
Bring the water to a boil in a pot and season lightly with salt. Once boiling, whisk in the polenta. Stir constantly until the starch starts to take hold and no longer sinks to the bottom of the pot. Cook for 45 minutes or until no longer grainy. Remove from the heat and whisk in Parmesan cheese, olive and butter. Adjust seasoning with salt.
To finish the dish, divide the polenta between eight serving bowls and top with braised greens and a drizzle of high-quality extra virgin olive oil.
Recipes and photos provided by Rolf And Daughters.